2nd/3rd Gen Revel Plumbing Upgrade

Remove all the drawers in the kitchen galley.

Disassemble the bench seat to provide better access to the plumbing under the bench seat.

Save all the hardware you remove, it will be reused.

Removing the screws can be tricky on the lower bench seat. We use a 6" long bit extension to have better reach when removing the screws.

We are going to be removing all of the old plumbing under the bench seat BESIDES the toilet line.

DO NOT CUT THE TOILET LINE SHORT. IT WILL BE REUSED AND NEEDS TO BE AS LONG AS POSSIBLE

Remove the mixing valve and set it aside. You will need to return the old mixing valve to us.

DO NOT CUT THE ORANGE GLYCOL LINE!!

Once all of the lines are cut, you can remove the old plumbing from under the bench seat.

We will be replacing the fittings in the heat exchanger in a later step, but if you want you can remove the fittings currently installed into the plate heat exchanger that is mounted on the wall.

Remove the interior shower valve and the plumbing line attached to it. We will be reusing the shower valve so set this aside when removed.

You may have to remove the control panel mounted on the wall if the plumbing lines are tangled in the wall.

Clean any old silicone off the shower valve and the shower wall.

Cut the two hot and cold lines under the galley. Take care to not cut the romex wire.

Using a box cutter with a sharp balde, cut the lines under the shower. Take care not to cut the romex wire.

With the lines cut, you can now pull the hot and cold lines out form under the floor on the galley side. We are going to want to remove both the hot and cold lines. You can discard them as they will not be reused.

Use a long handled screwdriver to push the lines out from the sealant under the shower. You want to push towards the rear of the van. We are trying to push the lines OUT of the sealant, not THROUGH the sealant. So this is why you want to push diagonally to the rear of the van.

It may take a few tries to get the lines free from the sealant. Once they are free you can pull them out from under the bench seat.

Although this is difficult, we have never not been able to get the lines out. You don't want to leave the lines in place as this could cause confusion if a repair is ever needed in the future.

Remove the screws securing the side panel to the galley, and peel up the velcro.

Cut all the white lines behind the panel, and you can discard the panel as we provide a new one with hardware.

Cut and remove the lines under the kitchen galley.

Remove the lines attached to the galley sink and discard lines.

Take care to not cut any wires under the galley when removing plumbing lines.

Remove the rear water control panel, and cut the white vinyl lines. You can discard the screws used to secure the panel, as we provide new screws.

Make sure to mark the wire groups and location before removing them. We will be reconnecting them at a later step.

You must save the rear shower valve, as it will be installed on the new water control panel.

This is a further explanation of the wiring grouping, and each wire's function.

Make sure to have the wires grouped or labeled before you remove them from the switches to avoid later confusion.

With the water panel removed, you can pull out the remaining lines from the rear. These were the lines that we cut under the galley.

Unscrew the water pump and the water pump control box. Set the pump aside along with the pump panel control. You can leave the wires connected to the pump panel control, they do not need to be removed.

Cut the line coming from the tank as shown. Once that is cut, you can pull the line out and discard.

Cut the fitting coming out of the tank so you can spin the fitting to remove it. We use an oscillating tool, but you can you use something else if you desire.

With he fitting cut you can remove the fitting from the tank.

The video shows a factory tank. If you are installing an this kit on a van with a S&B tank, the fitting may be different. You should be able to just unthread the fitting from the S&B tank.

Remove any of the old fittings left in the heat exchanger and discard them.

Install teflon tape onto the two Sharkbite fittings provided in the kit.

Install the sharkbite fittings into the heat exchanger. Ensure they are tight.

If the heat exchanger is falling down, pulling out from the wall, crooked, or otherwise not properly secured, make sure you properly secure it in place.

When re-securing the heat exchanger, ensure you do not use screws that are too long and protrude into the shower. There is a channel behind the wood support, but if a long screw is used it will go into the shower.

On some newer vans, the heat exchanger may be mounted very high up on the shower wall, and the mixing valve is typically secured to the bench seat support. If the heat exchanger is mounted high, you will need to lower it down, as the new mixing valve will interfere with the bench seat during final assembly.

You will need to match the temp settings on the new mixing valve to the old mixing valve.

Ensure you re-secure the knob with the screw you removed. Do this for both mixing valves. You will need to send us the old mixing valve as a core, so the screw and knob must be included.

Take care when setting the temperature. Burns can happen if the temperature is set too high.

Install the 12" hot and cold lines onto the mixing valve. Now is also a good time to install the 3/8" tees onto the other end of the hoses coming off the mixing valve. this will make it much easier than trying to install them under the bench when the mixing valve is in place.

Feed the mixing valve into place, making sure the hoses go under the glycol lines.

Place the PEX stub outs on the mixing valve into the Sharkbites installed on the heat exchanger. Make sure you FULLY seat the mixing valve into the sharkbites by giving the mixing valve a firm press.

Verify the mixing valve is properly seated by confirming the PEX stub outs went and even distance into the sharkbites. It is CRITICAL they are fully seated.

Install the provided angle adapter fitting onto the 1/2" threaded port on the mixing valve assembly. Do not use tools to tighten, as you can damage the plastic fitting. The fitting only needs to be snugged via your hand, there is a rubber washer that performs the sealing.

Slide the crimp clamp onto the toilet line, and use the crimping pliers to crimp the clamp onto the fitting.

Make sure the toilet line is not kinked or twisted when you install the line. You can cut the line shorter if needed.

In the video, it shows a hose clamp. We have switched to a crimp clamp, that uses a crimp tool to tension the clamp to seal the hose to the fitting.

Remove the control panel from the wall to aide in the installation of the shower lines.

Save the hardware you remove as we will be reusing this when the control panel is reinstalled.

We will be using one hot and one cold 72" long hose that has a 1/2" fitting on side and a 3/8" fitting on the other.

Clean off any old silicone sealant from the shower valve and the shower wall. You will need to reseal the valve after it is installed.

Connect the swivel adapters to the shower valve, and take care to not cross thread them onto the plastic shower valve.

The hot side of the valve is oriented towards the left had side if you are directly looking at the shower valve. Make sure you connect the lines to the appropriate side of the valve.

Connect the shower lines, and place the shower valve back into the wall.

The lines should point upwards, to form a service loop. You may need to roll the swivel adapters on the valve to orient the lines properly.

Hold off on securing the lines inside the wall for now, we will do that at a later step.

Re-secure the shower valve to the wall using the hardware previously removed.

You will need to re apply silicone sealant to the valve, but wait until you perform the leak check at the end incase you need to remove the valve to tighten anything.

We will be using the hot and cold 60" long lines with 3/8" fittings on both sides.

Feed the lines under the floor from the galley side in the same channel the old PEX lines were removed from. We want them to go under the shower, and connect to the lines under the bench seat.

With the lines fed under to the bench seat, we can connect the hot and cold lines to their respective spots on the tee fittings under the bench seat.

Once the lines are connected, you can push the excess back under towards the shower. Make sure there are no kinks or hard bends on the lines coming off the mixing valve, and the lines that go under the shower.

Remove the small plastic vent cover on the rear tank cover by removing the 4 screws.

The drain line is 72" long, and has 3/8" fittings on each end. Feed this line from the opening where the pump panel goes and towards the front of the van. You can reach in to grab the line to help guide it using the opening created by removing the vent cover.

We want the lines fed to the area under the galley. Make sure to go under any wiring with the plumbing lines.

Repeat this for the hot and cold lines. The hot and cold line are 72" long and have a 3/8" fitting on one end, and a 1/2" fitting on the other. We want the 1/2" fitting at the rear of the van.

Connect the hot and cold lines running from the rear of the van to the hot and cold lines running under the floor to the galley using 2 3/8" tee fittings.

Make sure the lines are routed under the romex wiring.

We will be using the two 36" long hot and cold lines. These lines have a 1/2" fitting on one side, and a 3/8" fitting on the other end.

Feed the lines down behind the wood bracing for the drawers. The 3/8" side goes to the bottom to tie into the tee, and the 1/2" side of the line faces up to tie into the galley sink.

Connect the sink side first. Take care when installing the fittings, as the sink connections are plastic and can be easily cross-threaded or stripped.

Route the 3/8" end of the sink line down to the tee. Connect each line to their respective tee location.

Hold off on securing the lines for now incase we need to pull any slack to the rear of the van.

Remove the original drain line that protrude under the van from the step.

Remove any sealant or foam that was originally present around the hole in the van.

Using the provided drain valve, remove the nut and one of the rubber washers.

Insert the drain valve from the underside of the van with the drain valve handle facing up.

In some rare cases you may need to use a step bit to ream out the hole to get the drain valve to fit.

With the drain valve installed through the hole, install the nut and tighten the nut using a 30mm socket or wrench. Ensure when you are tightening the nut the valve is not spinning under the van. You may need to use a pair of pliers on the valve to keep it from spinning.

Apply teflon tape to the 3/8" x 1/2" angle fitting provided in the kit.

Thread this fitting into the drain valve and tighten. We want the fitting facing at an upwards angle towards the rear of the van.

When you are tightening the fitting make sure the entire valve is not rotating under the van.

Connect the drain line to the valve and tighten the fitting. Make sure the drain hose has no sharp bends or kinks in it, and roll the elbow fitting if needed.

A new side panel cover is provided, but do not install this just yet as we want to leave it off to test for leaks.

Locate the swivel tee and the small brass nipple in the hardware kit. Install one side of the nipple into the swivel tee. You do not need any sealant on the side of the nipple going into the swivel tee as there is a washer for sealing.

Apply thread sealant to the other side of the nipple, and install into the tank. Tighten the fitting into the tank.

Connect the drain line to the bull of the tee. It is okay if the fitting points slightly up, this will help keep the line close to the tank. The head pressure from the tank will force the water to drain, and if a little water is left in the tank it will not cause an issue.

Locate the line labeled "Tank" and attach one end to the remaining spot on the tee that is installed into the tank. This line has 1/2" fittings on each end.

This video shows a different tee fitting and drain line. It also shows the tank with the rear cover removed. You do not need to remove the cover, and we are using a different tee fitting. The drain line will have a 3/8" fitting on the tank end, and will connect to the new style tee that has a 3/8" nipple on it.

Locate the pump inside the opening as shown. We want the front of the pump facing towards that black access cover. Ensure the fittings on the pump are accessible. You may need to cant the pump as needed to ensure proper fitment.

Make sure the pump is not touching the side of the van, as this could cause a noise when the pump is operating.

Secure the pump using the screws previously removed.

On this pump in the video you will see teflon tape on the pump fittings. This was removed after the video. DO NOT USE ANY TEFLON TAPE ON THE PUMP FITTINGS!! this can cause damage from over tightening. The threads on the pump are NOT the sealing surface. The line has an o-ring which interfaces with the pump to seal.

Locate the lines labeled "Pump In" and "Pump Out". Connect these to their respective positions on the pump. The side of the pump with the strainer is the inlet side of the pump.

Take care when installing the pump lines, the pump fittings are very easy to cross thread and strip. You do not need to go crazy tightening down the fittings to the pump, as there is a rubber washer that seals the connection.

Make sure the lines are routed in such a way they are not kinked.

Here is an image showing the connection points for the valve on the back of the new control panel.

Install the shower valve into the new rear pump panel. We want the hot side fo the valve on the left if you are facing the front side of the panel.

The blue line will be attached to the multi position valve that is already installed to the panel.

Connect the blue PEX line to the cold side of the shower. You can tweak the line to get it to line up by loosening the fitting on the multi position valve.

Ensure the blue PEX line is tight on both ends, and do not use any tools to tighten as you can damage them. Just use your fingers.

Confirm you installed the line to the correct COLD side of the shower valve.

This is an explanation of where the lines are going to connect to the rear of the pump panel to the multi position valve.

Now we are going to install the tank line, pump in line, pump out line, and the hot and cold lines we ran from the galley to their respective positions as shown.

Reconnect the tank sensor wires and the water pump wiring.

We will be mounting the pump control in a later step, so set that aside for now.

Connect the two white wires from the original pump switch to the lower two spade terminals on the switch labeled "water pump"

The two wires that were used for the pump on indicator light will need new spade terminals installed on them which we provide. Cut the old terminals off the wires, and strip the wires. Install the provided spade terminals onto the wires.

Connect the ground (white) wire form the indicator light onto the upper left terminal. Connect the postive (yellow) to the upper right terminal. (looking at the back of the switch)

Separate the three wires from the original outside light switch.

Locate the yellow wire labeled JC1 and place it on the switch terminal that is the second one from the bottom of the switch.

Place the white wire on the upper left terminal above JC1

The remaining yellow wire will have a jumper wire installed onto it. This is highlighted in the next step.

Cut the terminal off the remaining yellow wire. Strip the yellow wire, and the jumper wire. Place the stripped ends together, and slide on the yellow spade connector that was included. Crimp this connector into place ensuring both wires are secure in the connector.

Place the yellow spade terminal onto the lower left post on the switch. This is below the JC1 wire.

Strip the other end of the jumper wire, and install the blue spade terminal onto the wire.

Place ther jumper wire onto the remaining terminal on the switch, the upper right terminal. Confirm function of the outside light, and the backlight on the switch body.

Use the provided Dual Lock Velcro to secure the pump control module to the side of the new water panel.

Hold off on mounting the pump panel until we perform a leak check incase you need to tighten any fittings.

In the hardware kit there should be 4 smaller sized P Clamps, and 1 larger sized P Clamp. There should also be 4 #10x3/4" wood screws, and 1 #10x3/4" self drilling screw.

Use two of the smaller P Clamps to secure the shower lines in the wall as shown.

Use 2 more of the smaller P Clamps to secure the galley sink lines to the support that runs down the side of the galley as shown.

Use the 1 larger P Clamp and the self drilling screw to secure all 3 of the lines that run from the rear of the van to the sheetmetal floor of the van.

Connect a hose to the city water port on the rear panel. Turn the lever on the valve to "Pressure Fill". Gently turn on the city water and begin filling the tank.

Check for any leaks when filling the tank. You do not need to completely fill the tank, but put 5-10 gallons into it so we can use that for testing the pump.

We have a shut off valve installed on the end of our hose to make it easier to control the flow of water. This would be a helpful addition for testing.

With the hose turned OFF, turn the valve on the pump panel from "Pressure Fill" to "City Water". SLOWLY turn on the hose you have connected. This will bypass the tank and pump, and provide pressurized water directly to all the fixtures.

Go to each fixture and turn them on to begin flowing water through. Cycle both hot and cold on the faucets and shower valves.

This will push all the air out of the lines. Flow water until all the air is removed.

Inspect each fitting and connection for any leaks. Make sure to check the toilet line connection, and tighten the hose clamp if there are any drips present. This clamp needs to be very tight.

Make sure to test both the showers, and to flush the toilet.

If you have very high city water pressure in your municipality, use a pressure regulator to limit the pressure. Too high of a pressure can cause damage.

With the city water hose in the OFF position, move the valve to the "Use Tank" setting. This will use the water pump to pull water from the tank and provide it to the fixtures.

Turn the water pump on, and flow water from all of the fixtures to get any air out that was in the pump. Continue to flow water until all the air has been removed.

Also now is a good time to test the tank drain, go to the valve under the van and open the valve. Wait a few seconds until water has started to flow out, and then close the valve.

Close all the fixtures, and leave the pump on. There should be no leaks, and no pulsing from the pump. Sometimes air trapped in lines can cause the pump to pulse, so just flow some more water using the pump to push it out.

Check over all the pump connections and verify there are no leaks, and the pump can be left one for several minutes without pulsing.

With the pump switched off, move the valve to the "Siphon" position.

Connect a small length of hose to the city water port. Fill a bucket with some water, and place the other end of the hose into the bucket, below the water line.

Turn the pump on. The water should start siphoning from the bucket, and into the tank. Place your finger near the hose to verify water is being sucked in via the pump.

This is a 1st Gen Revel panel, but the concept and steps are the same.

After testing you can secure the pump panel in place. We will be using the black #10x3/4" screws for this.

Place the panel into position making sure you do not kink any of the lines when you are installing it.

Install the provided screws.

Secure the new side panel in place under the galley. Use the new provided screws.

Make sure you install the velcro for the screen onto the new panel.

After testing, reassemble all the previously removed components like the control panel, bench seat, and kitchen galley drawers.

The last step is to reseal the interior shower valve. Clean the surfaces, and using white silicone, lay a bead around the entire valve assembly. Make sure this silicone is neat and clean around the valve, and does not look sloppy. Use a tool or your fingers to smooth it out.

Make sure you clean the van, and remove any tools. All parts should be reinstalled, and everything secure.